The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 311: How to Get Out of Your Own Way with Board Climbing
Apr 29, 2026
Matt Pincus, a TrainingBeta coach who programs board climbing and trains climbers worldwide. He explains treating boards as tools, etiquette for crowded sessions, how to pick and organize problems by angle, and strategies to break plateaus. Practical tips on turn-taking, using board apps, and balancing projects with sends keep sessions productive and fun.
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Brushing Is A No-Brainer Habit
- Do always brush the holds; it's a zero-downside etiquette habit that benefits everyone.
- Matt stresses brushing keeps holds cleaner and signals you understand board etiquette, reducing friction in crowded sessions.
Ask Before Changing Angle But Be Flexible
- Do ask about angle changes and be flexible depending on how easy the board adjusts.
- Matt recommends short conversations to change angles and notes easier hydraulic/winch boards lower the friction to switch mid-session.
Choose Problems By Hold Type Not Just Grade
- Do judge problems by hold type and movement style, not only by grade.
- Matt suggests filtering problems by crimps, pinches, slopers to match your weakness or training goal rather than blindly following the listed grade.