HistoryExtra podcast Zoot suits, mashers & New Romantics: the evolution of the dandy
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Aug 12, 2025 Join Peter Andersson, author of 'The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendour', as he dives into the fascinating evolution of dandyism. From zoot suiters to mashers, he explores how male fashion subcultures have shaped identity regardless of class. Discover the cultural significance of the zoot suit and its role in the 1940s riots, and learn how black dandyism has served as a powerful form of self-expression and resistance through history. Fashion isn't just for elites—it's a vibrant tapestry woven by all.
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Early LGBTQ Connections
- In 1818 reports described a male brothel's members as dandies, linking early dandyism with homosexuality and police raids.
- Interwar Paris and Berlin saw trans men and lesbians adopting tuxedos, extending dandy practices beyond men.
Dandies' Own Voices Appear Rarely
- Newspaper letters sometimes reveal self-identified dandies defending their culture against mockery and critics.
- Most ordinary dandies remain anonymous in sources, so these rare voices are especially valuable.
Dandies Faced Public Humiliation
- Historical accounts record dandies being publicly humiliated, like Dublin women tying cravats together and throwing snuff.
- Similar abuse recurs across eras, including zoot suitors chased and mocked in the 1940s.
