The Struggle Climbing Show Coach Ollie Torr: Training like Alex Honnold, Climbing Endurance Hacks, Beginner Plateaus, and Listener Questions
Feb 7, 2024
Coach Ollie Torr discusses adjusting training during sickness, building power like Alex Honnold, breaking through beginner plateaus, energy system top-ups, and the importance of more than finger strength. They also share an easy hack to build endurance and discuss the benefits of CrossFit style training for climbing.
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Pyramid Approach Fuels Momentum
- Ollie structures seasons by picking a peak project and 'filling the pyramid' underneath with mileage and base work.
- Momentum from completing big projects accelerates progress on subsequent, lower-grade goals.
Make Warm-Ups Your Most Structured Part
- Use structured warm-ups to make the rest of the session more effective, keeping movement-pattern work at the start.
- Place body-tension and technical drills early so they transfer to the main training sets.
Beginners: Climb Often, Target Finger Limits
- Beginners with plateaus should keep climbing four days a week and make one session specifically target finger-challenging problems.
- Prioritize skill and gradual tendon adaptation over heavy off-wall finger training early on.