Inside Milan Fashion Week: Debuts at Gucci, Marni and Fendi

Happy Day 1 of Shark Week!

Today, we’re on the ground at Milan Fashion Week. There were debuts from Meryll Rogge at Marni, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi, and – most anticipated of all – Demna at Gucci. Nicole Phelps, Head of Editorial Content at Vogue Italia Francesca Ragazzi, and Vogue contributor Luke Leitch were there to take it all in, and The Run-Through was right there with them.

The question going into the Gucci show was: who is Demna now? After a decade of deconstruction and conceptual provocation at Balenciaga—jackets made from trousers, outrageous couture wrapped in 50 meters of tulle—the designer stepped into one of fashion's most iconic houses with an eye towards what fashion needs now.

At Marni, Meryll Rogge brought her knitwear expertise and a genuine emotional connection to the brand: she bought her first pair of Marni platforms with her first paycheck as an assistant at Marc Jacobs, and wore a Marni skirt to her brother's wedding as a teenager. 

At Moschino, Creative Director Adrian Appiolaza went back to his Argentine roots, finding inspiration in the landmarks, monuments and icons of his home country. The show closed with a model carrying a piggy bank purse and wearing shoes encrusted in euros. "It's not just about creativity, it's about finances," Appiolaza told Phelps backstage.

Earlier in the week, Vogue World Milan was announced for September 22nd at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II—"the Sistine Chapel of Shopping," as Leitch called it—with the theme of the human touch in the age of technology. 

Next stop, Paris!

The Run-Through with Vogue is your go-to podcast where fashion meets culture. Hosted by Chloe Malle, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue U.S.; Chioma Nnadi, Head of British Vogue; and Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway, each episode features the latest fashion news and exclusive designer and celebrity interviews.

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