The Eco Well podcast Topical Delivery of Skincare Actives with Gabriella Baki, Ph.D.
Apr 28, 2022
Gabriella Baki, Ph.D., is a cosmetics researcher and professor at the University of Toledo, specializing in the topical delivery of skincare actives. She discusses effective methods for ingredient penetration and the importance of formulation strategies to overcome skin barriers. The conversation also highlights misconceptions about ingredient concentration and the impact of skin conditions on absorption. Gabriella emphasizes the need for reliable skincare information and recommends readings to better understand cosmetic science.
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Skin Penetration Routes Explained
- Actives must dissolve and release from the formulation to penetrate skin via hair follicles, sweat glands, or mainly between skin cells.
- The stratum corneum's complex lipid and cell structure forms a tough barrier; most actives travel the intercellular lipid route.
Vehicle Choice Depends on Active
- Match formulation vehicle to active's solubility, size, and structure to optimize skin delivery.
- Design products where actives are not too comfortable in the vehicle, enabling them to leave and penetrate skin effectively.
Percentages Don't Tell Full Story
- Ingredient percentages alone do not determine product efficacy; formulation design and delivery matter more.
- Lower concentrations can outperform higher ones if optimized for skin penetration and irritation reduction.