The Audio Long Read Endo dreams of sushi: a trip around Japan with one of the world’s greatest chefs
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Apr 24, 2026 A chef retraces his path through Japan after a devastating restaurant fire, reconnecting with suppliers and mentors. Visits range from rice polishing plants and vinegar breweries to Toyosu market and a hidden sushi counter. Family history, apprenticeship stories and the craftspeople behind ceramics and architecture also shape the journey.
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Omakase Is A Chef's Life On A Plate
- Omakase is an invitation to the chef to present their life and craft as a sequence of dishes rather than a fixed menu.
- At the Rotunda, Endo used a 20-seat counter to narrate connections between fishers, markets and artisans through each plate.
Rice Precision Makes Or Breaks Nigiri
- Rice quality and polishing determine sushi texture; Endo prefers rice with protein between 5–6% for softer, stickier nigiri.
- He even imports Fukushima spring water to London to recreate the exact rice-cooking conditions.
Suppliers Rally After Fire And Warn Of Warming
- At a lunch with his rice farmer and meister, Endo calmly told them about the fire and received immediate solidarity from suppliers.
- In the paddy visit, early green shoots signalled warming; the farmer blamed global warming for unpredictable rice quality.