The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 299: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Capsulitis
Oct 22, 2025
Dr. Jared Vagy, a physical therapist and founder of The Climbing Doctor, dives into the world of capsulitis, a prevalent finger injury among climbers. He explains how it occurs, the symptoms to look for, and how to avoid it. Vagy shares effective treatment strategies, including unloading techniques and mobility tools to help maintain a pain-free range of motion. He emphasizes the importance of strength training and proper rehab protocols. Vagy also discusses how finger anatomy and training methods impact injury risk, offering valuable insights for climbers of all levels.
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Jared's Research And Community Work
- Jared has written 'Climb Injury Free' and researches practical rehab protocols for climbers.
- He created open-access protocols and a rock rehab community to help climbers and clinicians worldwide.
Finger-Length Shapes Injury Risk
- Shorter index fingers (2D:4D ratio) can force the middle finger to take more stress during crimps.
- Individual finger-length anatomy influences capsulitis risk and specific finger involvement.
Wrap And Test To Reduce Swelling
- Use elastic Coban tape around the joint and move the finger to compress and pump out local swelling.
- Test treatments: apply one method and re-test bending; keep what reduces pain and increases range.
