The Documentary Podcast

Fixing Chile’s fashion graveyard

Feb 17, 2026
Ivan Berrios, chairman of Zofri, explains the free trade zone and Chile’s new traceability rules. Jean Carla Zambrana Aviles, founder of Desierto Vestido, talks about grassroots campaigns against illegal clothes dumping in Alto Hospicio. They discuss why garments are abandoned, the health and environmental harms, recycling plans and a giant art installation made from used shirts to spark change.
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ANECDOTE

Life Beside A Fashion Dump

  • Jean Carla Zambrana Aviles describes living near burnt piles of dumped clothes that made her family keep windows closed.
  • Her daughter developed eczema and breathing problems that Carla links to the toxic smoke from burning textiles.
INSIGHT

Customs Rules Drive Illegal Dumping

  • Clothes in Iquique's free trade zone enter under a customs regime that forces accounting for every item.
  • Unsold stock must be re-exported, taxed to sell locally, or destroyed, which incentivises illegal dumping.
INSIGHT

REP Law Shifts Responsibility To Producers

  • Chile's REP (extended producer responsibility) law will make importers and producers responsible for end-of-life textiles.
  • Traceability and reporting obligations aim to shift disposal costs off local authorities and onto producers.
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