In St. Louis’ food scene, the current star of the show is the humble bagel. New shops, and long lines, have led Sauce Magazine’s Meera Nagarajan to declare it a veritable “bagel boom.” Ted Wilson, co-owner of Bagel Union in Webster Groves, describes the years of work to turn his boiled-and-baked dreams into reality, and Jackie Polcyn, the shop’s head baker and production manager, tells us what it takes to make the perfect bagel.