No One Saw It Coming

From War to Wardrobe: The Epic Saga of the High Heel

Aug 18, 2025
Elizabeth Semmelhack, Director of the Bata Shoe Museum, dives into the captivating history of high heels, revealing their surprising origins with male Persian soldiers. She discusses how these shoes morphed from powerful wartime tools into symbols of femininity, intertwined with colonialism and capitalism. The conversation also explores high heels as markers of empowerment and discomfort, challenging societal norms and perceptions of gender and fashion. It's a fascinating journey through fashion's complexities and its impact on self-identity.
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ANECDOTE

Persian Riding Heels Were Decorative

  • Persian riding heels were ornate, curved like a comma, often tipped with metal and colored, not crude wartime gear.
  • Semmelhack describes leather techniques and decorative details that made them aesthetically refined as well as functional.
INSIGHT

Trade Spread Heels To Europe

  • European men adopted heels after increased contact and trade with Persia during early modern exploration and commerce.
  • Semmelhack ties the heel's spread to trade networks like the Moscovy Company and cultural exchange with Persia.
INSIGHT

Early Gender Fluidity In Heel Fashion

  • In the early 17th century women borrowed male wardrobe elements, including low heels, blurring gendered footwear for a time.
  • Dutch paintings show men and women wearing similar low heels and comparable stature in portraits.
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