This Is TASTE 756: Nobody Cooks Italian in New York Like Michael White
Apr 6, 2026
Michael White, a James Beard and Michelin-starred chef who built NYC Italian dining (Marea, Ai Fiori, Alto), reflects on his Wisconsin roots, decades studying regional Italian technique, and reopening Santi. Eric Bedroussian, restaurateur behind LA izakaya Budonoki with Major Domo and Hillstone experience, discusses concept design, service, and building a sustainable neighborhood restaurant group.
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How Spiaggia And Bologna Cemented His Culinary Calling
- Michael White traces his culinary origin to working at Spiaggia in Chicago in 1991 where prosciutto, risotto, and porcinis first blew his mind.
- He later flew to Bologna in 1993, ate tagliatelle al ragù, and remembers Vespa sounds and rain as formative sensory memories.
Italian Restraint Is Technique Not Minimalism
- White emphasizes learning Italian restraint: smaller portions, materia prima focus, and knowing products at source (fresh ricotta, daily-made pasta).
- He links these taste memories and repetitive pasta technique to years of craft, not casual simplicity.
Why Crudos Took Off In New York
- White credits himself and peers for popularizing crudos and lighter Italian plates in New York, influenced by Japanese minimalism yet rooted in Italian ingredients.
- He positioned crudos as high-impact flavor with low belly impact, ideal for multi-course dining.