EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

This is part 2 of my conversation with Mikey Schaefer. We talked about climbing as a finite resource, footwear for big walls, rope tricks, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system for team-free ascents, climbing smarter, what Mikey is grateful for, and his refreshing perspective about COVID. You can find part 1 of our conversation in episode 18.  

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

Show Notes:  

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mikey-schaefer-part-2  

Nuggets:  

1:31 – Climbing ‘Moonlight Buttress’ in his 20s, 30s, and 40s  

4:09 – Moonlight getting easier, wearing out climbs, being mindful of the impact we have on climbs and climbing areas, and Mikey’s advocate “rant”  

10:06 – How Mikey thinks about footwear, and being smarter (as well as stronger)  

16:27 – Tommy Caldwell as a one-show-size climber, and how Mikey chose his shoes for ‘ Moonlight Buttress’  

18:45 – Compression socks, warmup up in socks and TC Pros, climbing in approach shoes, and developing footwork by climbing in shittier shoes  

22:53 – Tinkering with systems, “It’s easier to climb smarter than it is to get stronger”, weighing gear with a gram scale, and measuring the force of different top rope systems  

27:18 – “Friends don’t let friends belay”, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system, and leading in blocks  

34:56 – Grateful for financial security, Mikey’s grandfather held captive, and a refreshing perspective on COVID  

41:01 – Why Mikey feels content with where he’s at, plans to continue moving the spiral upward, and continuing to be a jack of all trades