Climbing Gold

The Greatest Climb

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Jun 23, 2023
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ANECDOTE

The 1978 Latok 1 Near-Summit

  • In 1978 Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, Jim Donini and Jeff Lowe spent 26 days on the North Ridge of Latok 1 and came close but did not summit.
  • Their attempt became a famed mountaineering story for its style, difficulty, and the bond it forged among the four.
INSIGHT

Alpine Style Changed High-Altitude Climbing

  • Alpine style pushed the limits by climbing light and fast on big peaks, raising commitment and risk compared to expedition style.
  • Taking alpine tactics to high Himalayan and Karakoram faces was revolutionary and reshaped elite alpinism.
ANECDOTE

Heavy Loads With Old-School Gear

  • The team carried about 17 days of food and swapped leads while the other two jumared fixed lines with heavy loads.
  • Their gear was primitive by today’s standards: long straight-shafted ice axes, leather boots, and wooden-shanked soles.
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