
New Books Network Ashkenazi Jews and Chinese Food
Mar 30, 2026
Andrew Coe, food writer and culinary historian known for chronicling Chinese food in America, traces how Chinese restaurants became woven into Jewish life. He maps the Lower East Side origins, holiday rituals like Christmas dining, suburban Sunday-night takeout, kosher adaptations, changing regional cuisines, and cultural meanings across a century.
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How Neighborhood Proximity Sparked Jewish Chinese Cuisine
- Jewish and Chinese immigrant neighborhoods overlapped on Manhattan's Lower East Side, setting the stage for culinary exchange.
- Chinese restaurants moved out of Chinatown after 1900 onto Jewish commercial corridors like 3rd Avenue, introducing chop suey and chow mein to Jewish diners.
Chinese Food Became Safe Treif For Jewish Palates
- Eating Chinese food let Jewish Americans taste forbidden foods like pork and shellfish while avoiding some kosher visibility.
- Dishes resembled familiar formats (wontons like kreplach, no dairy) so Jews rationalized 'safe treif' and adopted these foods socially.
Marjorie Morningstar Links Roast Pork To Liberation
- Andrew Coe cites Marjorie Morningstar where Marjorie's first taste of char siu links culinary initiation to sexual awakening.
- Eating roast pork gave her 'an odd sense of freedom' then she sleeps with her lover that night.



