Dropping In Surf Show Podcast

Surfing SCIENCE! with Dr. Jeff Nessler and Dr. Sean Newcomer

Feb 22, 2022
Zuhair Belcora, a board builder who returns to discuss shaping and rider preferences. Dr. Sean Newcomer, a physiologist researching wetsuit thermoregulation and cardiovascular responses. Dr. Jeff Nessler, a biomechanics researcher studying paddling, board volume, and surf instrumentation. They explore wetsuit materials and heat loss, paddling biomechanics and intensity, board design vs. efficiency, and novel measurement methods used in surf research.
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ANECDOTE

Skate Parks Deliver Intense Hourlong Workouts

  • Cal State San Marcos found skate parks provide very high sustained heart rates for kids and adults, rivaling good exercise.
  • Sean Newcomer described observing kids' heart rates 'through the roof' during an hour of skate or surf PE.
ADVICE

Survey Surfers Right After Sessions

  • Ask surfers immediately after getting out of the water about perceived cold and wetness to align perception with measured skin temperatures.
  • Sean had undergrads survey surfers poolside to capture instantaneous perceptual heat-loss data for manufacturers.
INSIGHT

Surf Industry Rarely Uses Published Science

  • The surf industry lags other sports in applying published science to product R&D, despite accessible public research.
  • Jeff Nessler noted wetsuit and board makers rarely request validation and often launch new products without data-backed claims.
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