The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 307: Board Climbing Pros, Cons, and Best Practices with Matt Pincus
Feb 19, 2026
Matt Pincus, a TrainingBeta coach who programs board work for climbers, breaks down board climbing as a training tool. He compares Moon, Kilter, Tension, and spray walls. He covers who should use boards, three session types, common pitfalls, and how to treat board grades without getting hung up on them.
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Neely Found Boards Improved Aim And On-Site Execution
- Neely says boarding improved her dynamic aim, reach awareness, and allowed more dynamic moves on routes.
- She found boarding helped her on-site performance and execution, making routes feel easier after boarding regularly.
Match Board Use To Ability And Training Purpose
- Anyone can use boards but tailor application to ability and goals; use ladders or static exercises if problems are too hard.
- If you can't do typical MoonBoard boulders (V4+), use static ladders or easier boards like Kilter to build toward it.
Don't Make Boards Your Only Movement Exposure
- Exclusively training on boards reduces movement diversity exposure; set-holds provide varied angles and complexities you won't get from a single board.
- Matt notes newer climbers should avoid making boards their whole indoor diet because they'll miss slabs, heel/toe hooks, and complex moves.