
New Books Network Sarah Jones Weicksel, "A Nation Unraveled: Clothing, Culture, and Violence in the American Civil War Era" (UNC Press, 2026)
Feb 27, 2026
Sarah Jones Weicksel, historian of Civil War material culture and author of A Nation Unraveled, explores how clothing shaped wartime life and meaning. She discusses who made uniforms, how garments conveyed rank and masculinity, shortages and local sewing economies, battlefield looting and keepsakes, and how dress mattered in emancipation and relief efforts.
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Clothing As A Battlefield For Society
- Clothing served as a material arena where Civil War questions about allegiance, social order, and emotional life were fought.
- Sarah Jones Weicksel shifted from a looting project to clothing because sources repeatedly centered garments in politics, identity, and everyday survival.
Women Were Central To Uniform Production
- Women supplied uniforms through diverse labor: elite women commanding enslaved seamstresses, working-class professional seamstresses, and home-based stitchers.
- Sherman viewed mill workers as military assets and removed 400 Roswell mill women, charging them with treason to disrupt Confederate cloth production.
Brass Manhood As Material Symbolism
- Uniform ornament—brass buttons and gilt braid—was a deliberate public language of manhood, rank, and patriotic identity labeled here as 'brass manhood.'
- Newspapers and even playing cards taught civilians to read insignia so people could decode rank and social status.


