Today we’re joined by Patrick Withington, founder and head chef of Manchester’s cult favourite Erst. Fresh off welcoming a new baby and about to turn 40, Patrick sits down with us in the restaurant everyone told us we had to visit during our 36 hours in the city. Tucked into the heart of Ancoats, Erst has become something of a pilgrimage for natural wine lovers and food obsessives alike — the place locals insist you visit if you’re anywhere near Manchester.

Patrick’s route into cooking is far from conventional. A former plumber who didn’t start in professional kitchens until his late twenties, he built his way in through supper clubs, travel-inspired cooking and a belief he could create the kind of restaurant he wanted to eat in himself. That idea became Erst in 2019. After a quiet start, a turning point came when Patrick had to call diners to cancel bookings ahead of lockdown — including restaurant critic Jay Rayner, who promised he’d return. When he did, his glowing review helped ignite the buzz around Erst and cement its place as one of the most exciting restaurants in the city.

In this episode we talk about the journey from Sirocco Supper Club to Trove to Erst, the dishes that have become cult favourites (including the famous beef-fat flatbread), and why natural wine became such a big part of the restaurant. Patrick also shares his favourite Manchester spots, the realities of opening a restaurant, service horror stories, and what his ultimate three-course meal would be. It’s a conversation about instinct, hospitality, and building a restaurant that stays true to what you actually want to eat and drink.

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Ep. 1425 - AMoL Ch. 22: The Wyld