Laird Hamilton: Retain Your Enthusiasm
ALLSMITH
00:00
What Made You Hate Big Wave Surfing?
I think I had a natural, dare devilish, risk-taking character as a young man. There's stories of all kinds of stuff that I did as a younger kid That sometimes almost seemed too far-fetched to be true. So, you know, it was probably a good combination of a good environment to do that and a good time to do that. And so I happened to be in an environment where all of these great watermen and big wave riders and great divers and fishermen were drawn to my mentality.
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