Karly's 'zone of genius' and human-centered coaching

Karly Rager is a structural engineer turned climbing coach, and the founder of Project Direct Coaching. We talked about Karly’s background and what led her to start her own coaching business, being a female in two male-dominated industries, mental strategies for developing focus and overcoming fear, transitioning between climbing disciplines, using injuries as opportunities, cultivating longevity in our climbing, valuing coaches more highly, and much more.

Check out Grasshopper Climbing!

grasshopperclimbing.com

instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing

Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! 

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/karly-rager

Nuggets:

0:06:11 – Literature, poetry, and public speaking

0:10:07 – Engineering school, and rediscovering art

0:11:37 – Karly’s background, studying engineering and working as a structural engineer, and discovering climbing

0:15:48 – How climbing connects with the engineering and the artistic parts of the brain

0:19:11 – Mentoring friends, and becoming a climbing coach

0:21:52 – Mental strategies for developing focus, and being an observer of your own mind

0:25:53 – Making mental training measurable, and mindfulness practice

0:28:31 – Starting her coaching business (Project Direct), and figuring out which lever to pull

0:31:58 – Developing skills, emersion, and learning vs. performing

0:36:41 – The “Trenches of Transition”, and my (Steven’s) transition from Smith Rock to steep cave climbing

0:39:26 – Having different grade pyramids for different styles of climbing

0:43:51 – Karly’s 4 Pillars, and questions to ask yourself if you are considering getting a coach

0:48:24 – How to get initial coaching experience, Karly’s leap from engineering to coaching, and recommended certifications for climbing coaches

0:53:43 – Stacking her resume, and being female in a male-dominated engineering world

0:58:23 – Being scrutinized as a female climbing coach, standing up for herself, and letting her guard down

1:01:49 – Using respectful language, and Karly’s tip of pretending your email is addressed to a male recipient

1:07:18 – Setbacks in climbing, breaking her leg, and the finite number of tears we have to cry

1:14:30 – My (Steven’s) first finger injury, and the wisdom I got from my roommate

1:17:45 – Using injuries as an opportunity

1:22:47 – My (Steven’s) favorite climbing areas right now, and favorite crags in St. George, UT

1:26:45 – New rock types take time

1:33:01 – Trying to onsight ‘The Rainbow Wall’

1:40:41 – Placing more value on ourselves as climbers and coaches, and being paid based on the scarcity of our skills

1:48:12 – How we value overworking in western society, and why we should be encouraged (and paid well) to do work we enjoy

1:52:56 – Karly’s “zone of genius”

1:54:51 – Cultivating longevity

1:59:36 – The eye contact drill

2:01:50 – Give each skill 8-10 weeks of focus

2:02:35 – Our body’s ability to remember skills and movements

2:04:51 – Different learning styles, using imagery, and using video as a tool

2:12:22 – Karly’s strategies for keeping her coaching businesses sustainable, having set days for specific tasks, and taking time off

2:20:13 – Making coaching more accessible while paying coaches well, and other ways to pay it forward

2:28:00 – Being a mentor and a mentee

2:30:33 – How Karly is currently being a mentee

2:33:46 – Karly’s hope for the climbing industry