
Best of 2021: Layne Beachley can teach you how to surf big waves - without ever getting wet.
Better Than Yesterday with Osher Günsberg
00:00
What's the Point of Surfing?
You don't accidentally find yourself at the top of man, never a start. The amount of time that you're honor wave is what? 12 seconds,. 21, eight to 12 seconds, all right? And if this heat here, all right, let's say you catch four, four waves of heat tht you're getting scored on or whatever. So that's one, two, three, for that's like maybe a minute of your life between paddling oor firten and you're oteo 25, 30 minutes. Ye. Loethe creatures you a lot seting defle ta me alot.
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